The Old Jewish Cemetery in Frankfurt

This is the Judengasse Museum in Frankfurt.  You can read more about our visit last January in this post.  It is a must see museum, fascinating.

This afternoon we took the kids to visit the Jewish Cemetery behind the Judengasse Museum.  It’s closed on Saturdays, so we’ve never been able to visit there until today.  You have to go into the Museum and leave collateral to get the key to the cemetery, which is always locked.  We were the only ones there and we were instructed to lock the gate in the wall behind us when we entered.

The Jewish Cemetery was outside the old Frankfurt wall (which the Ghetto backed up to).  It was inclosed with a high wall.  The grass was not mowed, there were big chestnut and oak trees, moss covered the old stones.  It was peaceful and very old.  The cemetery had been partially destroyed.  There were piles of broken stones.

You can see the location of the Jewish ghetto in the overlay on the photo below.

The location of the cemetery is marked below:

The sign said this is the oldest preserved Jewish burying place of the city of Frankfurt, and the earliest provable burials.  The oldest stone is for Hanna bat Alexander, died in 1272 and the last is 1828.

The cemetery was almost completely destroyed 1938-1942.  In 1995, the outer wall was redesigned to be a memorial, with stone markers embedded all the way around memorializing the Jews who died during WWII.

Here is some good information about this sacred place:

Old Jewish Cemetery on Battonnstrasse

https://www.juedischesmuseum.de/en/visit/old-jewish-cemetery-frankfurt/  

800 Years of Jewish History

Overview
The Jewish Cemetery on Battonnstrasse lies tucked away under a dense canopy of treetops in the southeast section of Frankfurt’s inner city. It is the second oldest preserved Jewish cemetery north of the Alps after the “Heiliger Sand” (Holy Sand) Jewish Cemetery in Worms, Germany. The oldest extant tombstone dates back to 1272–the oldest material evidence of Jewish life in Frankfurt.

The cemetery originally lay outside the city and was not included within the city walls until the city was expanded in 1333. Jewish communities of the surrounding areas that did not have their own cemetery also laid their dead to rest there until the 16th century. This hallowed ground served Frankfurt Jews as a final resting place until 1828. When Frankfurt’s new Main Cemetery was established, the Jewish community was also allotted a new cemetery on the south-eastern boundary of the new Main Cemetery, on Rat-Beil-Strasse. In 1929, a new Jewish cemetery was created flanking the north of the Main Cemetery, on Eckenheimer Landstrasse. It is still used for interment today.

Expropriation and Destruction

In 1939, the Jewish community was forced to sell their cemeteries along with their other properties to the City of Frankfurt. The plan was to level the Battonnstrasse cemetery. Demolishment of the almost 6,500 gravestones commenced at the beginning of 1943. Some 175 selected tombstones, of historical importance or particular value in an artistic sense, were removed in advance to the cemetery on Rat-Beil-Strasse. The demolition work on the cemetery was halted due to bombings and debris and rubble dumped there instead. As a result, 2,500 tombstones remained fully preserved, along with thousands of shattered tombstone fragments.

Presentation by the Lord Mayor to the city councillors, December 23, 1942

“The old Jewish cemetery on Dominikanerplatz is to be cleared as soon as possible and prepared for use as a dumping ground should there be major building damage caused by enemy air raids. […] The costs for removing some 7,000 tombstones and part of the trees amount to approximately RM 35,000.”

Jewish Community Frankfurt

The cemetery was returned to the newly formed Jewish Community after the end of Nazi rule. However the clean-up work on the cemetery continued until the end of the 1950s. The tombstones that had been removed to Rat-Beil-Strasse were returned and stacked up along the inside of the cemetery wall, as their original location could no longer be determined. The tombstones of some well-known personalities such as Mayer Amschel Rothschild and Rabbi Nathan Adler were grouped together in a corner at the southern wall. Between 1991 and 1999, the cemetery was pictorially and textually documented. Images of the tombstones and their epitaphs along with translations and commentaries have been published on the website of the Salomon Ludwig Steinheim Institute in Essen.

Many of the gravestones in the cemetery bear images such as a rabbit, a windmill, or a fish trap. The houses in the Judengasse didn’t have house numbers. The marks on the gravestones show in which house on the Judengasse the deceased lived.

Visiting these old sacred places always causes me to pause and consider the eternities and God’s plan for each of us.  I am grateful that all things will be restored, bone, skin, flesh and even stone.

Aaron and Abbey Visit!!

This morning our son, Aaron and his wife Abbey flew into Frankfurt.  We’ve been waiting for them!  The next 10 days we will take a little time off to spend traveling with them to places we love and to places we haven’t been to yet.  It’s going to be oh, so fun!

Today we started with downtown Frankfurt, just to keep them awake.

We took the train to the Römerberg, the main plaza in Frankfurt and showed them around.

Here’s John teaching them about Frankfurter Kranz, a traditional popular cake found in bakeries all over Germany, made to look like a crown.  The cake dates back to the 18th century when the German Emperor was crowned in Frankfurt.

Of course they had to try some!  We also explained our “Pastry in Every Town” policy.

We did a little shopping for some food for our trip.  Abbey has some food sensitivities, so she found things she is able to eat and enjoy.

I am happy to see that STOLLEN is back!!  Christmas is coming!!  This is my favorite late night with hot chocolate treat!

These two love gummi candies, so we stopped at this little candy shop.

We also stepped inside St. Katharine’s Lutheran Church.

Then we smelled the hot fresh popcorn and picked up a couple of bags to eat in the car.  YUM.

Before leaving, we stopped at the Dom, majestic and beautiful.

What was left after the bombs that dropped on 22 March 1944:

For dinner we stopped at John’s favorite Brat shop.

Tomorrow morning our road trip begins!

Insights and the Labrums

Every Wednesday at noon we have a Book of Mormon class for all of the Area Missionaries serving here.  We take turns teaching.  Today Dave and Laurie Stevens taught.  I captured a couple of pics of some ideas I want to think more about.

He did.  He would have.  He will.  I’m grateful for that.

We also had a surprise visit from Clark and Jennette Labrum, who were here for the day before continuing on to Uzbekistan, where they’ll be teaching English with the Irwins.  What a grand adventure awaits them!

John and Clark served together in Switzerland 50 years ago!

Dinner and Movie Night with the Schotts

We had a really fun evening with missionary friends and Heinrich and Kathrine Schott, from our Offenbach Branch.  They invited us over for a potluck dinner and a movie.  We enjoyed watching The Fighting Preacher, about Willard Bean who was sent to Palmyra to help secure church historical sites in the early 1900s.

This was my favorite dish of the evening:  Apple Kohlrabi salad.

To make this, cut the green from the outside of 2 Kohlrabi, wash the bulbs thoroughly, peel them and dice them.  Wash and quarter 3 apples, remove the cores and cut them into large pieces.

Put into a food processer and chop for 7 seconds on medium speed.

Dressing:  100 g. Creme fraiche, a spoonful of sugar, 1/4 tsp each of pepper and of salt.

Serve with baguettes or Ciabatta bread.