Schiltach im Schwarzwald

After winding our way through forests on narrow mountain roads, we eventually made our way to Schiltach, the town John had found on a website as one of the best Schwarzwald Towns to visit–an old Medieval town off the beaten path.

We parked by the river and then wandered into town. Almost immediately we were met by a lady about our age, dressed for Fastnacht in black and gray with a costume skirt that had points and bells on the tips. She had an animal skin over her shoulder and she carried a basket filled with little square donuts covered with sugar.  She came right up to us and offered us one, welcoming us to Schiltach.  We noticed a few other costumed men doing the same thing along the main road.  When John asked her if she had made the donuts herself and she proudly said, “yes!”

There was excitement in the town. People were out decorating for Fastnacht festivities (the time of breaking the fast after Lent). There was a town square on the hill (quite steep cobblestone roads) with a May Pole in the center by the town fountain/well.  The Fastnacht banners (fabric strips) were attached to it, radiating out from the center to all the buildings in the square.  The buildings were magnificent.  Beautifully preserved, colorful, artistic architecture.

We noticed other townsfolk also with baskets, handing out donuts and welcoming visitors.

We walked over to a big protestant city church built between 1839 and 1843. Large and solid (and locked), one of the largest protestant churches in Baden. No frills on the outside.

The town isn’t big.  A river runs through it.  The walking tour takes you up one old Medieval street and then back down the one behind it.  I took lots of photos so I remember this place.  It really was such a delight.

Again, I started to feel panicky, that soon all of this will be behind us.  When I get that feeling, I just want to take photos, knowing my memory won’t hold it all.  This detail, that view, this window, that date over the door.  I want to capture and hold it all in my heart and mind.  We were both rather quiet, as we soaked it all in, one last time, knowing that tomorrow we get on a plane and leave this place.

The town square, decorated for Karnival celebrations.

This is the old Town Hall:

Above is a depiction of the Devil from Schiltach (1533).  These Faustnacht celebrations go way back!

“Schrittempo” means walking speed.

More Karnival characters!

These old homes are amazing.  The one below was built in 1591!

Here’s the town’s Fastnacht’s celebration schedule.  Today is the city wake-up call.  Tomorrow is the rag carnival.

Another hold home from 1590:

Most of the people we saw were dressed up.

Another built in 1590:

It was hard to drive away from this place.  But we had one more stop to make before the sun set.  I love Germany.

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Author: Ann Laemmlen Lewis

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