Salzburg — Vespers at the Benedictine Nonnberg Abbey

As the sun set, we came down the steep path from the fortress to the Stift Nonnberg (Nunnery).  This is the oldest abbey in the German-speaking world.  It has been operational without interruption since it was built in about 712.

Nonnberg Abbey gained international fame through The Sound of Music. Every day at 6.45 am or at 5:00 p.m. the nuns’ choir sings Gregorian chorales.

The Benedictine Nonnberg Abbey lies a little above the city at the foot of the Festungsberg and is famous for its Gothic architectural elements and its murals and smaller works of art. It is also here that the story told in the Hollywood production of “The Sound of Music” begins. Widely unknown is the fact that the nuns sing Gregorian Chorals every morning.

This visit was a highlight of our day. We were there at about 4:45 and went in to wait for the Vespers. There were about 15 other people there waiting quietly in the candle-lit chapel. It was beautiful, old, cozy and decorated for Christmas.

The music began at 5:00, floating softly into the chapel. We never saw the nuns. They were in a room somewhere above us.  We listened for 30 minutes.  The music was gentle and angelic, sung a cappella.  After the first 15-20 minutes, most of the other people left.  By the end, we were the only ones left in the chapel.  It was ethereal, heavenly.  Beautiful Latin Gregorian Chants. Old world. We loved being there.  I tried to capture the feeling in a memory. It really was moving.

The nuns were singing from the loft above.

Looking back at the fortress from the Abbey.  I am imagining the real life Maria von Trapp here in this very place where her story began.

This sign says that this Abbey was built around 663-718 and it’s the oldest women’s monastery north of the Alps.  Erentrudis is the most important Saint of Salzburg, born in the 7th century.

Our hearts really felt filled as we continued down the mountain this evening.  Before long we were back in Salzburg’s festive Christmas Markets, a fun way to end our day.

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Author: Ann Laemmlen Lewis

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