Today we spent several hours wandering around Vienna–going from one Christmas Market to the next. The markets are in the town squares or plazas by all of the “Sehenswurdigkeiten” (sight-worthy places) we hoped to see in Vienna. It felt like a two-for-one bonus to be here during the Christmas season.
The markets usually open at 10:00 or 11:00 in the morning and go all day, until 10:00 or 11:00 p.m. The mornings aren’t as crowded and it’s easier to enjoy seeing the things in the shops.
These Christmas Markets are historical and looked forward to:
In 1764 there was mention of a Saint Nicholas and Christmas market at Freyung. As this was also the location of a regular market, conflicts between stand owners of both markets led to the provisional relocation of the Saint Nicholas and Christmas market to Platz am Hof in 1842. In 1843 it became the permanent site for the market: every year on 5 December, 132 “crèche market stands” were put up and remained there until New Year’s day.
Below are photos of the different kinds of booths and crafts and food we saw today. The air was crisp and cold, but the booths were filled with hot food and drinks and we were surrounded by happy people enjoying themselves and the food offerings–things like fresh pastries and baked goods, candied nuts, flavored popcorn, chocolate-covered fruit, brats of all varieties, crepes, and local dishes.
Some markets feature local artisans and their handmade crafts including gift items like sculpted candles, handcrafted decorations, Nativities of all varieties, every imaginable kind of Christmas ornament, jewelry, ceramics, and other crafts. You will also see consumables like honey, jams, gourmet condiments, candy and chocolates.
All of these offerings are spread out below or around magnificent historical buildings and churches and palaces. There is nothing like it–it’s really magical!
In Vienna you can hire horse carriages to take you around the city.
Here is the Christkindmarkt, another fun market venue:
The history of the Christmas Star goes back about 160 years. These beautiful stars hang all over Europe in shops and homes at Christmas time. They are beautiful. Some are made of paper, some are made to survive outdoors. Most are lit and hung in windows, these geometric wonders that remind us of the Christmas Star that shined down on Bethlehem.
I am bringing some of these patterned cut stars home to remind me of our Christmases here.
Sometimes the displays are as interesting as what is being displayed!
Gluhwein, or hot mulled wine is the most popular drink sold in Christmas Markets.
Off to the next market–the Vienna Christkindmarkt by the Rathaus. It was a little like going to Temple Square with all the trees lit up. There was also a large ice skating track.
While John went to get a Käsekrainer—a frankfurter-type Wurst stuffed with cheese, onions, parsley, mustard and curry powder–I sat on a bench and watched people. I’d say only one in ten looked German or spoke German. I learned later that there are BUS LOADS of people who come to this market from the Slavic countries–Romania, Hungary, and the other eastern European countries. Dark haired, olive complections. I sat there feeling like I was living through the tower of Babel–I couldn’t understand their languages–so few were German-speakers. It was so interesting.
Snow globes were first invented in Austria.
These spiral-cut potatoes are one of our favorite snacks.
I really liked these hand-painted ornaments from Ukraine. We bought a few.
Do you ever wonder what happens with all of the treasures that aren’t sold here in these Christmas Markets? Every booth has to have enough inventory to look FULL every day for several weeks. I never saw a booth or stall (in these big markets) that looked like it was running out of things to sell. Where to all the leftovers go for the rest of the year?? And can you imagine packing up and moving out when the market ends? They usually pack up and take down in a day or two. And did you ever wonder about all of the electrical outlets demanded by cobble-stoned places like these? Many of the wires are run underground and they come up through openings like manholes with electrical boxes below the surface. It’s all so fascinating!
After leaving these markets this evening, we made our way back into the heart of Vienna to the Musikverein for our evening concert, Handel’s Messiah. A perfect way to end a very fun day!
Our Frankfurt Germany Mission 